Metals

Whether you go with moissanite or naturally minded diamonds, or black and silver tungsten or rose gold; whether you want a more traditional look or something more distinctive and now, we can make a piece tailormade to fit your dreams.

Here is a sampling of some of our latest arrivals at Joseph Schubach. Some of these pieces are totally sharp and cutting and edge in design while others maintain a classic allure.

Black and Silver Tungsten Carbide Ring

We are very excited to display this new arrival. It’s sleek, futuristic and a definite eye-catcher.

Black comfort fit tungsten carbide wedding ring with silver tungsten center, 8mm wide

Style 10471

Titanium and Diamond Wedding Ring

Similar in its “now” appeal, the diamonds in this ring add another level of complexity in look.

Titanium comfort fit wedding ring with 3 diamonds (.09ct total weight) and 4 black inserts, 7mm wide

Style 10469

Hand Made Pave Diamond Engagement Ring

This delicate but bold ring features three rows of perfectly set and perfectly matched pave diamonds. Each row of diamonds gradually and elegantly tapers from the top of the ring to the base of the ring. The ring also has pave set diamonds between the prongs and beneath the prong assembly highlighting your center stone even more.

This is one of our Specialty Items which means each piece is made specifically to your specifications of ring size, metal preference, center stone size and preference and incorporating any other changes or ideas you might have.

We just received an email from our goldsmith of a piece that’s going out today. This ring was made in 14kt rose gold, and our goldsmith thought it was so pretty she sent over a quick picture for us to see.  We have to agree, it’s absolutely gorgeous in rose gold! It’s our style number 10137, which you can see here.

Rose gold versin of style #10137

Diamonds, sapphires, rubies…we know the gems and the mystique that surrounds them. But often we overlook the equally important metals in our jewelry. The metal is often behind-the-scenes, supporting and displaying its dazzling centerpiece – but each metal possesses a magic of its own.

This week, let’s focus on the many facets of gold:

GOLD

Gold is popular because it can be worked into almost any shape. Yellow gold jewelry of 18K and above does not tarnish and rarely causes problems for people with skin irritations. White Gold is popular for its appearance and price point compared to platinum alloys.

Technically there is no such thing as ‘White Gold.’ Gold can be lightened by combining it with light metals such as Rhodium; a member of the platinum family and the whitest precious metal after silver. This rhodium plating creates a hard skin with good resistance. Over time plating may wear through. Re-plating is a fairly simple process, depending on the condition of the piece. In most cases this will be done approximately as often as a platinum ring requires re-polishing, although a fine plating job may last longer than a polish on platinum due to the superior hardness of rhodium.

COMMON GOLD ALLOYS

24K gold (100% pure gold) does not work well for jewelry because it is too soft. A more durable option is 18K gold, which is 75% pure gold. It has the richness of 24K gold where some of the less pure alloys may not.

Identification

18K gold is the most recognized global standard and will be marked ’18K’ in the USA and ‘750’ in Europe.

1. 18K Yellow Gold

* 75% Gold, alloyed with Copper, Silver, Zinc and/or Cobalt
* Does not require plating
*  Very workable
*  Rarely causes skin irritation
*  Will wear down, but over a long period of time with heavy wear

2. 18K White Gold (nickel white gold)

* 75% Gold, alloyed with Copper, Nickel, Zinc and/or Palladium
* Requires rhodium plating and re-plating over time, depending on wear
*  Less workable, less ductile
*  Causes skin irritation for people with nickel allergies
*  Will wear down over a long period of time

3. 18K Palladium White Gold

* 75% Gold, 25% Palladium
* Requires rhodium plating and re-plating over time, depending on wear
* Very workable
*  Rarely, if ever, causes skin irritation
*  Will wear down over a long period of time
*  More expensive than 18K nickel WG

Comparison Photos

1. 18K yellow gold
2. 18K white gold, rhodium plated
3. 18K palladium white gold, not plated

Source: Pricescope Diamond Journal

Here’s our high-style, white gold gent’s engagement ring:

Style 7180WB

Gent’s 14kt White Gold Diamond Wedding Band

Gent’s 14kt white gold wedding band, diagonal design with .20ct t.w. channel set diamonds, high polished and matte finish, 7.75mm tapered.

Metal: 14kt White Gold
Width: 7.75mm
Stone Size: .20ct t.w.
Ring Size: 8.5 – 13

We are in the process of hand fabricating a piece of custom jewelry – a palladium engagement ring for a client and thought we would show you how a hand fabricated piece starts out and explain a little how the process works.

A truly hand fabricated piece of jewelry is different from a traditional lost wax/cast process. With a custom lost wax process, the wax model is carved by hand or carved with a machine (CAM). This wax is then used to directly cast in metal the final piece of jewelry. With a hand fabricated piece, we start out with a piece of metal, like the metal rod shown here. The metal is then worked (filed, hammered, shaped, etc.) by hand into the shape of the final piece. So, rather than carve a wax and cast from the wax, a hand fabricated piece is literally made entirely from hand. It is a much more difficult process to do.

Some pieces are better off being hand fabricated than cast. For example, jewelry that has very fine scroll detail or gallery sections that require fine, intricate polishing are great candidates for hand fabrication. This piece will have very long, smooth curves, and hand fabrication will give us a smoother, more even finish when we’re through.

We’ll try to get some pictures of this ring mid process and post to the blog.

Looking for a platinum alternative? Try palladium (click here for additional information).

Last week, you learned a little about platinum and its finer points. This week, we shift the spotlight to palladium, the lesser known “little brother” to platinum. What is this wonder metal and how can it add to your jewelry wardrobe?

According to Wikipedia:

Palladium itself has been used as a precious metal in jewelry since 1939, as an alternative to platinum or white gold. This is due to its naturally white properties, giving it no need for rhodium plating.

It is slightly whiter, much lighter and about 12% harder than platinum. Similar to gold, palladium can be beaten into a thin leaf form as thin as 100 nm (1/250,000 in).

So not is it only highly durable, it’s affordable – making it quite popular during a struggling economy. According to Pierce Mattie Public Relations:

A sure sign of its rise to fame came at the 2009 American Gem Trade Association Spectrum Awards where they announced that Palladium is finally gaining more acceptance in the designer world.  Many designers including Tenthio, Sasha Primak, and Michael Sugarman will be developing an entire palladium collection in conjunction with high-karat gold and platinum lines.

Additionally, retailers can expect to see an increase in palladium pieces at upcoming trade shows.  Solidifying the trend, some of the most highly acclaimed names in the design world will also be adopting the metal, including Robert Lee Morris, Paul Morelli, Zoltan David, Alishan, Michael Bondanza, and Barry Kronen.

(above) Wedding bands were in demand during the 1940s, and many were made of palladium. This diamond-set eternity band is engraved “E.A.E. & M.O’R. Oct. 20, 1943” and “Palladium – Tiffany & Co.” (see inset). Courtesy of Kurt Rothner, Excalibur, West Hollywood, CA.

 

Here are a few other stellar examples of palladium pieces:

Platinum is a bit of an elusive metal. We all have a historical understanding of gold and silver but platinum can seem like the odd man out. What is it exactly? And why would you choose platinum over other metals for a wedding band or other fine jewelry? Well, here’s a few points on platinum to ponder prior to purchase:

All the platinum ever mined would fit in the average size living room!

Annually, only about 133 tons of platinum are mined, compared to about 1,782 tons of gold.

Louis XVI of France proclaimed platinum the only metal fit for royalty!

10 tons of ore and a five month process is needed to make up one ounce of platinum.

lthough Platinum may seem new, it is also legendary. The Ancient Egyptians and South American Incas prized it. France’s Louis XVI proclaimed it the only metal fit for royalty.

egendary jewelers such as Cartier, Faberge and Tiffany created their timeless designs in Platinum. The world’s famous diamonds, including the Hope, Jonker I and Koh-I-Noor, are secured by the permanence of Platinum.

latinum reached its peak of popularity in the early 1900’s, when it was the preferred metal for all fine jewelry in America. When World War II began, the U.S. government declared Platinum a strategic metal and its use in non-military applications, including jewelry, was disallowed. To appease consumers, who preferred Platinum’s white luster, white gold was substituted in Platinum’s absence.

It is very fashionable to wear Platinum with your gold jewelry. In fact, many Platinum designs combine the two metals. Platinum’s white color beautifully contrasts with yellow gold and adds versatility to your jewelry wardrobe.

No other jewelry metal is more precious, more lasting or more appealing than platinum. Its rich white luster and understated elegance are beyond compare.  Discover why platinum is the metal of choice for today’s discriminating jewelry buyer.

It is the heaviest of the precious metals, weighing almost twice as much as karat gold. Its strength ideally secures diamonds and other precious gems.

Even after many years, platinum will not wear away or wear down. For example, after many years of wear, a gold wedding band’s shank will wear down and become thinner. This is not the case with platinum.

As with all precious metals (gold, silver, etc.), platinum can be scratched. However, with platinum, there is actually no material lost from the scratch as there is with gold. If your platinum jewelry becomes scratched, simply take it to your jeweler for a quick polish.

In America, platinum jewelry contains either 90% or 95% pure platinum. By comparison, 18 karat gold is 75% pure and 14 karat is 58% pure gold. Platinum will never tarnish or lose its rich white luster.

Ten tons of ore must be mined to produce a single ounce of platinum. It takes five months to process platinum ore into pure platinum. Only after this time can skilled hands work their creativity and craftsmanship, transforming platinum into pieces of wearable art.

Platinum jewelry is as versatile as it is beautiful. The choice is yours: platinum with karat gold accents for breathtaking new versatility or, for the purist, the subtle look of all platinum.

Whether inspired by classic or contemporary themes, platinum jewelry is perfect for any occasion under the sun, moon or stars. A quiet luxury in today’s world. A treasure to be worn.

Source: History of Platinum

Style 6813WB

Platinum Comfort Fit Band With Hammer Finish And High Polished Sides

Platinum comfort fit wedding band, hammer finished center, high polished sides, 6mm wide.